The Claiborne & Polk Military RR: Tracking the Trail

This is a 2013 editing of a 2009 ride report. Being such, please accept the early writing funkyness.
Identifying it from the present funkyness may be a problem.
I'll keep  most of it as a reminder to do better.
Also: there have been additions and a correction.
It begins:
In lieu of an exercise program, I've talked myself into believing that riding my bike will keep me tuned up. I've even let that slide recently, so..... yesterday I decided to do a full workout, impending body and soul frying heat or not.
I've become more invigorated with the old trains that ran the woods between the US 165 and US 171. That has been possible due to the voluminous amounts of information Everett (Southern Forest Heritage Museum, Long Leaf, La.) has given me, Mark's contributions and enthusiasm, and the fact that part of Louisiana is about as prime as it gets for motorcycle riding whether your interest lies in the history, scenery, the road or somewhere in between.
And, I'm not talking just paved roads. The area is webbed with great gravel roads, courtesy of the National Forest Service. A sweet spot lies bordered by those 2 major US highways, La.10 to the south and La.28 to the north. There are others in the state for sure. That's my self-imposed limits for this area. If you bite off too much, you choke. (Yes, I realize that the J&E fell bellow La.10, and others are widely spread, so please don't write)
This is going to be a general description of the ride which will not include the in depth shots of believed Claiborne and Polk Military Railroad right of ways though some will be shown which capture more than that facet. I told Al I was cutting his previously slandered "woodsy" shots and he fired back that he now wanted them, so, well, you pick your fights with Al and that will not be one of them.
First, some old business. I found this shot in my camera. I'd either taken it on purpose or the camera auto fired. I find it poignant, but I don't know why. The spike was in my pocket as I sat down to review the Cottonport Depot Ride shots. It is from the Mansura KCS/L&A/LN&R depot property. I also find its presence self-reflective and questioning. How could I be walking around with a spike in my pocket? I guess you adjust. I did feel a bit lighter and more comfortable with its absence.
Here we go:
I was fairly efficient in getting to west Opelousas. Exiting town on US 190 I saw this  mundane old building on the north side. What got my attention was its old styled facade. I think I've seen a similar one over on Bayou LaFourche, on the east side of the Basin. I asked a local contributor if he remembered the place. He mentioned meeting his first wife there. I further quizzed him on the names of the band that played there and evidently that was not his focus of the times as he remembered none. He just wrote back that he remembered Johnny Allen. I think one of his bands was band was "Johnny Allen and the Memories", a great Swamp Pop artist. Record List Click Here Biography Click Here
Update: And this is a happy one. Someone or an organization is taking over the building.
Its exact use has not been decided.
You may be able to see the remaining fluorescent lights, "Southern Club". South Louisiana and East Texas, especially Beaumont, were dotted with such Swamp Pop venues. Often these places doubled as cock fighting arenas, a truly fowl addiction. Jay's Lounge in Cankton was one that doubled up. Bless Jay's, but it had a dark side.
He did add these notes for posterity with a time frame (his bar hopping era) . It follows:
"Bea's [a bar he'd mentioned] was catty- corner from that boudin place [old Southern Pacific crossing on what is now La.182, just south of Opelousas], and what is now Teche electric supply.
There was also a who-- house across from the airport, it was hidden in the trees, maybe that was the 2 story brick one?" [I had mentioned a two story building I thought was a big restaurant or bar or......]
I had to dash that word, who--. In doing so I presented a question. I'm sure we'd be surprised, or not, at the answers to "who" among our notables who frequented who-- houses here in Southwest Louisiana.
[Cat Doucet, the long ago sheriff of St.Landry parish was linked to a house of ill repute, if my memory serves me. The mention of a who-- house should not link the mentioner to actually being associated with the mentioned establishment, he or I. So, take us off your who ... house visitor list.]
The mentioner goes on:
"There was also Raphaels across from Soileau's Restaurant on the Washington Road. I really didn't barhop much in those days".
[Maybe late 80's to mid 90's which seems late in the century for those places to still be open, but I guess they were? Tradition dies slowly here in SWLA.]
Back to me: So you thought this was going to be about choo choos and wandering the woods? Well, it is, but I like to get your attention first. By the way, the hook for reading all of this is a pretty intense look at Leesville at the end of the ride, but you'll need to completely ingest the first pages to find the key to opening that one. That's just my way of sharing the suspense and or drudgery that accompanies these things.
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Explanatory Update:
Magically, in this ride report,  I transported you to somewhere northwest of Glenmora. The Red River and Gulf  Railroad  operated on either side of  the axis which US 165 creates between Forrest Hill and Glenmora. But this is not about that railroad or the mill. It is about the army's RR's route. I almost wandered off. Back to where I was.
Can't you see it? I didn't think so. If you can see it, tell me in the guest book and I'll send you all the shots only an illusioner can appreciate. I won't stress you again in this one. It's the former rail bearing right of way that crosses 113 west of Glenmora.
Further update: It seems that I was really off base with this military railroad report.
Possibly if I look at a map I'll understand what I was doing. Otherwise, with the passage of time, I have joined you in the chin scratching audience.
I think this is the answer. I often do favors for contributors. One was an old woods railroad disciple. Possibly the company which contributed much of the C&PMRR right of way had tracks here (at "Crossing) and  I was displaying what I found.  People work with me, I try to work with people.  On these maps the brown dash lines are old railroads.
In the next one, up from there, you can see the same railroad heading off to the right. The following shots will be only to display the countryside....... and there will be a few mentions of the hidden history most possess. This is beautiful country and if only to smell the pines, it is worth the visit. (sorry hay fever victims)
Update: I'm reading this thing for the first time in a long time. It seems I jumped the gun on the previous map. It seems I did try to cover your immediate disorientation.
Back to the ride:
I'm going to throw in a little map of my immediate wanderings in the forest west of 165. The green area is the Kisatchie National Forest. The little dash lines are old railroad routes, some call them trams, but there were many true "through" railroads there, also. The lumber company holdings got so widespread they needed railroads to bring in the harvest and in some cases, the finished and semi-finished products. So you see these little lines running everywhere. The key to finding the through lines is finding longer dash line continuations that may go somewhere today in the form of roads and connecting them.
Update. It beats playing Monopoly with arrogant children.
In these woods, back during WWII, the army built a railroad, some of it on the bed of a previous lumber company route. It was the Claiborne and Polk Military RR, named for the two camps (Polk was not a fort at the time) at either end of its route. It was built for training and transportation purposes. The weighpoints on the map, marked with S's and a number and P's with a number, as well as "Big Cut", mark the C&P's route, or so I believe. I have not completelely varified that with a contributor's maps, though it does girate in the same manner in what I've seen. I can only guess that the rest is true. These disclaimers really wear me out. Lieing or making unsubstantuated statements seem an easier alternative. My pay scale grants me that option.
The story goes like this, the green dashes, those depicting the probable route of the Glenmoara and Western (yes, I could have just made that up. They are the "d" weighpoints) come from the south, seen in the previous two pictures. I'll tighten this up later or EL will come screaming. The Army used some of their route, as I said, or rather Everett said, to go west. The yellow dotted line is the C&P. The white dotted line is me. Sometimes we are the same. The red dashes are the Red River and Gulf  RR out of Long Leaf as it heads off to the west on tour. The weighpoints (numbers) mark the roads where the C&P  crossed.
Update: This is a WTP, "wasted time project". It is a rainy early morning and as I actually got  a few notes thanking me for yesterday's WTP which was really a boring test for most readers, I am doing anohter.
Now the disclaimer. This hunt got lost and the route is not exact. The Agent, previously known as Agent 00-L, but now I've shortened his "handle", has sent me the exact route  of the C&P which I may post or not when I'm done. Otherwise consider this a fairytale which is suitable for reading to children of all ages if  you remove the part about the who... houses.
I was just zooming in a little and found "Germany Creek". Had there been war games here involving the railroad trainees who were, in many cases, seasoned railroad men?
Near D9 is the Sunset Fire tower. I could have climbed it. The gate was open, there was no one around and the steps were to the ground. What kept me? FEAR. Fear is a double edged sword. One side protects and the other inhibits.
I can hear a little voice in the back of the room, "Well, was there any sign of the railroad at D9"?
Yes, there was. This is just to illustrate the thick woods and to placate woodsy picture wanting  Al. I have to keep reminding him he asked for these. These ROW pictures are amazing, I must admit,. Most people are blind to the wealth of history notched into these woods.
This one's for the biker crowd at the Biker Barn. Here I am at D9. In the absence of any further evidence, I tried to be as economical as I could and got the required bike shot taken.
Update: I've recently  lost that audience when I posted a rant against "Losers and Loud Pipes".
Mine are so quiet I can leave the house and my wife never knows it so she doesn't know when to start the rejoicing.
At S21, near the base of Potato Shed Rd, the C&P had joined the whatever RR and both headed west through here.
At this point in the ride I needed to go east and start from Big Cut, where the C&P and Red River & Gulf  crossed (on the map) That is all documented in another write to be linked to at the end of this one. I don't want you scurrying off to read it and leave me here with no one to lie to.
I was on a roll. Next was the Spring Creek crossing. This was the route to the river.
The next few are river shots. I couldn't swear that I actually saw the opposite bank receiving the rails. I keep forgetting that the 1940's were a long time ago and Lord knows, I have enough reminders.
There was the sound of a small rapid and gurgling stream.
If you are into small rapids and gurgling, this place would be your Nurvana.
 I just got a little zap. There were stairs down to the water. Had this been the location of an old Baptist church? I've seen this same scene in East Louisiana.
The current had straightened out the river plants.
I've got chores to do or I'm going to be "straightened out".
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We are now going to hunker down and getter done.
Spring Creek crossing is off of Richmond Road. Richmond Rd. runs east into Richmond Cutoff Rd. I feel sure that Richmond Cutoff Rd is the C&P. Look at this road and imagine it as rails. I know I'm dead on with this one. Don't fuss about the road sign, I could have named it "Steve Road". I obviously have the power to do so.
At the end of Richmond Cutoff is Boy Scout Rd. Right across BS is 259.
Great memories of the Claiborne Multipurpose Trails came crashing back.
The operative word there is "crashing".
The old C&P runs directly into National Forest Road 259. The tracks crossed Boy Scout Rd and continue on 259 until it arcs south. There is a 2 rut road that continues. Take it and you'll be at Big Cut. The route continues after the C&P jumps the Red River and Gulf at Big Cut. That fill on the east side is extremely interesting. It is high above the surroundings. I have taken my RV through there. That is not suggested as the embankment is eroding. From there the line proceeds into the bowels of Camp Claiborne. I turned north on Boy Scout and made a loop north and then west back to Richmond Rd, ready to continue west on the C&P.
"50" and "49" are RR&G crossings. I headed back to S 21 on East River Road. I went north. I turned west off East River onto Glass, which had been named Clarence Edwards.
I had a chance to intersect the right of way.
I found it. But, there was a gate. I would have traveled on but you never know how reactive people can be. The guy that lives down there might have been robbed recently. He may have shinny mean dogs. The possibilities can have an end, Yours.
By the way, I found the other end of this section. The gate was down on the other end and I could have ridden it. I might one day. It would offer a woo woo opportunity. That's when you can ride a right of way and pretend you are a train and go woo woo. Don't knock it until you try it.
Glass Road was gorgeous. Look, I use these various rabbits, old railroads, bayous, and road numbers as a way to explore places I'd never think to go. It works. Choose your rabbits.
I returned to E. River and pulled into the settlement of Calcasieu.
The old store marks the crossroads.
Next, I left down Strothers Crossing Rd.
The crossing location is a neighborhood beach. Local women with their kids showed up while I was shooting. They were neutral and ignored me. I, not having Al with me to handle social amenities, remained neutral, also. Reflecting, possibly it was best. If they were Fontenots we could have been there for a while.
Could this have been left from the '40s?
This is an arm of the Calcacieu River. There are many.
I also like bridges, another rabbit. Could it have been the C&P crossing?
If not a rail bridge, then I bet it was built by those guys.
I rode back up the road to take a picture of the other end of the road with the gate. This one had a gate also, no signs. I'll be back as this stretch crosses another arm of the Calcasieu.
I next tuned northwest on La.112, turning southwest on Padgette Road and then northwest on Farmer Cutoff Rd. Then Merchant Rd. This was a vague passage. Nevertheless, the railroad's path was still evident. S18, 17, 16, 15, 14 gave it up.
I reached La.121. Ahead was Army Stuff.
It looks the right era? I'd seen another one on the J&E route. Could the Army have had a garage sale?
Had Al attended?
Next was LaCamp. I saw the historical maker and thought it might commemorate the old railroad. The "Golden Spike" finishing the line was struck here.
But, this was about another historical happening.
The Hillery, Edwards and Fuller right of way was assumed by the C&P in part.
And that is the rest of the story. Below is local color. Dirt track racing in this area is big time.
It's for sale at the church. Ask for Darren.
I was off onto La. 489, north of LaCamp to try to find where this happened.
That's confusing?
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I've gotten to the point in the ride where I tucked in behind the  bike's wind screen and twisted it.
I was giving to much attention to detail and had to move on.
La.489 is a great little road. I found nothing but pine trees where I thought the last spike had been driven.
I did find a log cabin.
Twisting west.
I was starting to get worn out with the C&P. The road had supplanted the mission. I fell into what motorcyclist call rhythm. That doesn't mean fast or slow, I guess it's where everything is in sync and flowing along. Or, I was dehydrated nearing sun stroke status. I don't remember it being hot. Delusional dehydration can be your friend for a while. 
I reached La.465 south of La.28, the Alex to Leesville road.
I saw a farmhouse with a boxcar behind it.
It had no markings.
The Agent added this:
"You depicted a boxcar on a rural property.  There are tons of those scattered around central Louisiana.  Back around 1980 (roughly, give or take several), the Louisiana Midland had a world of stored boxcars on its embargoed line when it lost a bridge somewhere.  That stranded the boxcars, and drove the final nail in the LOAM coffin.  Somebody (perhaps an insurer) decided to sell the boxcar bodies cheap (or maybe even give them away) to anyone who would pay to have them hauled away.  The house movers did a brisk business as every farmer across central Louisiana who wanted an indestructible storage shed got him one.  If this one had no markings, it had been repainted by the owner".
I reached La. 28. I sat there pondering the situation. I usually turn a ride around at 3pm. Being that it was daylight savings time, wasn't it was really 2:00 sun time, I rationalized. I turned toward Leesville. La. 28 is being 4 laned. The state police are heavy along that route, so be cool. My next S mark would be the C&P's crossing as it went north over La.28. I would not pursue it as I wanted to use my time in Leesville. The final C&P picture would be stunning and a great way to end this stretch of research.
Update: From this point on I was probably not on any part of the C&P. It disappears  into the Army's property and if I'd entered I'd probably disappear, also. The rest will be great pictures of a pretty town and railroad stuff which I did not identify or maybe I did. Remember, this is a fresh reread of old material.
This was added from a benefactor:
"Now, I must call your attention to a mistake in your CPMRR commentary.  Your shot of its old right-of-way from LA 28 is just wrong.  The CPMRR never went that far north.  That is indeed a rail ROW, but it seems to be the Hillyer-Deutsch-Edwards line.  The CPMRR had used 14 miles of the HDE alignment, but turned off to the west on the south side of LA 121 between Leander and Lacamp".
S10 marks the spot. You can see how it turns west after crossing the main highway. The Calcasieu Basin is a tangle of riveretts. I'm sure crossing it was well planned to be the most efficient. Or maybe not? I know a lot of post had to be driven for those trestles. I sure would like to have  found one. The remainder of the C&P would have to wait. I was going to Leesville.
I saw this shortcut. I missed it, but found a way to it. I rode for 5 miles and came to a "Road Closed" sign.
From this point on it's all about Leesville. As seen above a benefactor clandestinely known as "The Agent"
has added a wealth of info that has brought many of the pictures "to life".  This is new as of 4/19/2013.
Where I wanted to go was in sight.
I threw a tantrum in the middle of the road. I cursed Louisiana, Vernon Parish, the DOTD guys and my mother in law since I've been so restrained lately. Never let a good tantrum go unstoked. Didn't Obama's Chief of Staff say that? Rawn Somebody? After I'd blown my wistle and the pressure was down, I calmly reversed course and returned to La.28 for another try at getting to the  tracks I'd seen on the map in Leesville. My GPS wanted to take me back to the out bridge, I cursed her too. She's long known her name rhymes with "itch".
Nevertheless, I did find a neat way into Leesville. By the way, Leesville takes a bad rap. It is a very nice little town. I sensed I was near a historic lumber mill. I have that ability.
What did I tell you? I can feel these old ghost towns.
The "Ferguson" name will be mentioned later.
Page 5
I parked the bike at the crossing. I think I was getting a little woozy as my give a dam' was gone. I'd just parked in the middle of the road. What were they going to do, run over me? This was a great place for me to cop an attitude since there was no traffic. I think I was still hot over the "Road Out" experience. I'm getting one of those orange cones and put "Road Closed" on it and park anywhere. No traffic will be allowed to pass me. I know, that's brilliant.
 
The Agent added:
"Your first several shots in Leesville proper are at the Third Street crossing.  That crossing had the last wig-wag signal that I ever remember seeing anywhere.  There was back in my childhood, when it was the only signaled crossing in town".
Thank you, but this one is better. That's where I was headed.
I am glad I took this shot because the The Agent had this to add:
"Now, go back up to the top one of your grade crossing photos.  Through the trees at the right, you can see a white building with an industrial saw-tooth roof line.  That was the shop building behind the old Ford dealership.  This all-steel building was moved from Fullerton, where it had been part of the Gulf Lumber Company mill there.  That was some time after the mill cut out in 1927".
W.T Block's comments on the GLC can be read HERE  and more precisely about Fullerton, HERE.
If at all interested in the history of the area, these links are not to be passed.
Here's looking down 3rd Street which looks like the old "main drag".
The Agent added this:
Among the crossing photos, you have the "old main drag" picture with the American flags.  In this photo, the brown one-story building at the far right was Werner Motor Company, the original Ford dealership. Model T's and Model A's were sold there.  The taller and darker brown building beyond it was the Nona Mills Company's downtown office building.  Farther down is the original building of the downtown branch  of  The Vernon Bank.  It was built in 1906 as the Bank of Leesville, and it was the first masonry building downtown.  In 1910, it became the First State Bank, and it changed its name to "The Vernon Bank" in 1933.   The most distant building on the right (the light one past the dark green one) is the 1907 First National Bank Building.  That bank promptly fizzled, but it left behind this sturdy cast-concrete building, three stories tall and with a very large footprint as well.  (It doesn't look that tall on this photo, because it's down the hill.)  It is directly across Third Street from the "Historic 1910 Courthouse."  It is the current official Vernon Parish Courthouse, after being totally renovated circa 2000 into three large courtrooms, the Clerk of Court's facilities, and various offices.  Thus, the "new" courthouse is a building three years older than the historic 1910 Courthouse!   At http://www.flickr.com/photos/courthouselover/3103412833/lightbox/ is a photo of its modern main entrance on what was originally the back side.
Here's one more shot of railroad and the gateway to Leesville's old downtown, a treasure most
people passing through have no idea exists.
The next one is looking north.
A map would make things easier for me, so I'll put one up."Yard" is incorrect, It is explained later.
A brief explanation. The yellow line is an old railroad coming into Leesville.  The C&P ended at Camp Polk.
 Update: What followed was a bunch of incorrect speculation which I've erased. That is easier than going on and on about it when going on and on and on and on and on is not required.
The weigh points marked Y1 and Y2 represent where a wye met the present day KCS.
The following businesses were on that wye.
Update. I am sure The Agent  or some other has made contributions as to the nature of the mystery railroad.
A map will follow. Update: I'm getting a little winded on this rewrite, just to share.
Here's a map. That yellow line is the red one here. Those rails came in from Slagle. At one time the mention of that place would have set off bells and whistle. Sorry, those days are gone.  Another railroad, purple, crossed the Slagle line. The blue green is the present day KCS.  I just read something about another woods railroad that visited Pickering. I'm wondering if one of these is it.  I have to fight it. I can't get involved with woods railroads again.
Indeed, The Agent has checked in and added an explanation:
"Your yellow/red railroad to Slagle was the Leesville, Slagle & Eastern.  It belonged to White Grandin Lumber Company, which owned the mill at Slagle.  Your purple one was the Leesville, East & West, which belonged to Nona Mills.  The Nona mill stretched from the historical marker all the way to Belview Road (the one you came into town on) and encompassed all of what is now the junior high, high, and elementary school properties in between and then some.  Except for the brick ice plant, all of the mill was gone by my time".
I couldn't resist punching in "View in Google Earth".
 In red is the Slagle Line.
  Entering Leesville
 Some of the following buildings can be seen below.
The Agent had this to add about my building shots:
"I don't think that the several buildings that you depict below the Google Earth views were exactly railroad buildings, but rather warehouses of various kinds served by rail.  The dark green one has what I think was a Holsum bread advertisement  {yellow paint} showing through the paint on its end.  I remember it from before the green paint...." He continues below the next shot.
Me: To be clear, in this and other ride reports you may see the term, "rail related" or
"RR related".  That is a wide ranging term that encompasses  I use to explain structures
which were suspected by me of being served by a railroad or possibly owned by one.
Then I saw this building. I didn't know if I could uncover it enough for a shot.
Then I wanted to go inside, but it had "signs" and I decided not to.
The Agent continues:
"The buildings in the bushes were always in the bushes in my memory.  Neither the LS&E nor the LE&W had a proper depot at Leesville.  The former's facilities were at Slagle, and whatever the LE&W had was at the Nona mill."
It seemed the real deal railroad building, maybe a railroad warehouse.
I think it was connected to the railroad that left Leesville going east.
This is the tank that was next to it. Was it for water or oil?
I don't think it was high enough for what I wanted it for.
I returned to the main line and surveyed the depot and nearby buildings from the east side.
Was that a dogtrot?
Yes, it's all a part of the museum that is the depot property now.
The next building is another old depot. I didn't see it as such then, being delierious.
The Agent  had this to say about the display of old buildings at the depot/museum.
"You found the old buildings just north of the KCS depot.  The one that looks like a depot is
actually the ex-Santa Fe (Jasper & Eastern) section house from Cravens.  That means that it
was a residence for he section foreman who oversaw maintenance of a stretch of track.
It had been moved locally at Cravens long ago but was re-moved to Leesville by the museum".
Next was the Leesville Depot / Museum:
As I rode south, I saw this huge old warehouse.
The Agent:
"The huge long green warehouse east of the depot housed a Lake Charles-based wholesale
grocery distributor in my young memory".
I can't quite figure the rail set up here. There is this very large open space which says "yard" or "business" or something to me. I think you can say for sure the green building had a siding next to those doors.
The Agent:
"The large grassy area was never a rail yard {marked "yard" on the map above}, but there were once some random spurs to the various warehouses, etc.  Also, KCS kept the wye {labelled "wye"}to the long-gone LS&E in service into maybe the mid 1970s to turn locomotives after the Leesville roundhouse was out of service.  After all those tracks and the wye were taken out, First Street was completely rebuilt and greatly straightened through that area.  It used to curve all around as it crossed several tracks as I indicate in red on this map:
Past it was this little building, still moving south, paralleling the tracks. It had great roof vents.
The Agent could not add to the pipe or the building.
Then a real surprise, engines with KCS on their sides. I thought the Kansas City Southern had been eaten.
 UPDATE: This was 2009 and I knew nothing about present day railroads having been a Woodsy guy for most of my RR daze.
The Agent said that he had remembered  that CSX engines often came in on military trains
when he lived there.
I was now on the west side of the tracks. Here's the south end of the Leesville Depot.
Backing off a bit:
And, at the north end of the station was this cracked bell surely a copy of the Liberty Bell, but I couldn't be sure. There's the museum's sign and you can barely see "Leesville" on the station sign. My framing was getting sloppy. I'm sure that's not all.
The Agent's explanation:
" That reduced-size replica of the Liberty Bell that's at the depot used to belong to Liberty Federal Savings and Loan, which occupied the building that now houses the Vernon Parish Police Jury (depicted lower on your page).  Liberty Federal went belly-up when all of the S&Ls did, and the FSLIC sold the building to the parish.  The bell ended up at the museum".
Here's the other side of the Craven's section house.
Here is the Dogtrot: that was seen from across the tracks.
And adjoining facilities:
Possibly this little house housed rail workers? (no)
Agent's comments:
The little board-and-batten house that you depict below the picture of the "facilities" is a sawmill-town shotgun house that was moved in from Redtown (where all such houses were once painted barn red).  Redtown was along Redtown Road (PR 106) a short way south.  It was part of the original "Negro quarters" of the Gulf Lumber Company's mill at Stables (now New Llano) .  The Gulf company also had "Dago quarters" for Mexican laborers".
Read Block's article on the "Gulf Co." linked up the page.
Then there was the China Grove Church and School:
"China Grove" seems to be a common name in the woods. Why?
There is one I know of in southwest Mississippi which is a turn of the century building.
The Agent:
" 'China Grove' is a common place name across the South due to the occurrence of groves of china-berry trees.  There was an .... old man over at Hineston who built a miniature sham village out of scrap lumber in his back yard.  (Notice how the boards are painted different colors.)  He called it "China Grove."  When he died, it was about to be trashed, but the .... old woman who ran the depot museum thought it was Williamsburg and got tourist promotion money to move it to Leesville.  All of the little shacks other than this one lacked the structural integrity to be moved, but this one was added to the growing ... town at the Leesville depot.
Across the street was Fertitta Brothers, 1915.
Agent:
"Fertitta Brothers was a hardware store that survived until about the 1980s."
"The southern third of the same building is actually a separate building with slightly darker brick.  On the façade it says "D & K Sliman 1915."  That was originally a grocery store.  By my times, Fertitta Brothers had spread into that building too, through a hole cut in the dividing wall.  There was also a slope up or down in the floor.  The buildings are now occupied by medical offices.  These buildings were built eight years before the depot museum.  The previous depot was wooden.
Oops, got too many pictures on this page, a sign I'm wearing out.
Page 6
I went west to the old main drag and got the obligatory Vernon Parish Courthouse, 1910, picture.
Leesville is not a recent happening.
The Agent:
"Now, to the Historic 1910 Courthouse, the pride of downtown Leesville:  I'm glad that you were impressed.  It was the third courthouse for the parish.  The first was a two-story wooden building on this site circa 1870s.  The second was ... {the} ill-fated red brick Romanesque Revival structure built on the same site in 1907:
 "Within two years, huge cracks had appeared, and it was in danger of collapse.  It was hastily demolished and replaced by the third (1910) courthouse.  The tan brick for this 1910 Beaux-Arts masterpiece (under white stucco for all my life) was made locally.  The pit where the clay was dug is still visible about 1,500 feet west".
The Police Jury building was down the way.
The Agent:
"Next, you show us the Police Jury building (former Liberty Federal).  Note that it is, very appropriately, a reasonable replica of George Washington's home, Mount Vernon".
I was and am so proud of myself. I was headed out of town and I was really tired. Then I remembered seeing an old railroad structure on the north side of town on one of my trips. I needed to investigate. I u-turned and headed back through town. Leesville is not so bad when you get use to the 15 un-timed lights on US 171.
It seems that I had bad timing and not the lights or my memory ranged back into history.
The Agent:
"The last time I was there, the "15 untimed lights" on US 171 had all been replaced with new lights on fixed arms with sensor cameras to provide on-demand service to the cross streets, but otherwise to remain green for US 171.  It's a system of which TxDOT could be proud!  It works very well at moving the heavy traffic on 171".
So, don't shy away from Leesville because of my slur.  It is a treasure.
I went under the train overpass and blew off that shot since I have one.
I was right.
I had to stop, pull out the water and Dr. Pepper and stoke my box before pushing on. After I'd replaced my helmet I crammed 2 granola bars in past the front bar into my mouth. Feeling physically rejuvenated, I went on down to the station across the grass on the bike. Was I getting wild and crazy!!! The heat will set you free. The station was from Benson, DeSoto Parish, La.
This was evidently going to be a little tourist area.
I had to pull the vine away from the name to make it out.
Here's the little store. I don't know if it's old or a replica?
I got gas at the adjoining Shell station, then headed south on 171 back through town.
The Agent:
 "When the Benson depot was first moved to Leesville, it was located near the golf course to house  a gift shop run by two little old ladies.  They called it "Benson Station."  After they died, it was moved to where you saw it, to serve as a year-round Christmas décor store called 'Prancer's Place'. That didn't last long, and it's been for sale.  It belongs to the same man (the new Republican Mayor) who has the adjoining Shell station.  The little red storefront is fake and was added to serve as an entrance to the store".
Seeing the old house, I had to get a picture. It was huge and it was being restored.
The Agent had this to add on the house:
"The huge old house being restored was the home of George Rose Ferguson, who was the local boss and one of the owners of Nona Mills.  (He's mentioned on the Nona Mills historical marker.)  He was also one of the principals of The Vernon Bank in its early years--the modern main branch of which is located right across southbound US 171 from the house, on land that it bought from the Fergusons.  Mr. Ferguson had identical-triplet daughters who appeared in national magazine ads for Ivory soap during the WWII era".
I cleared town and was on the south 4 lane when I saw the old store. Not yet having enough "old", I u-turned at New Llano. I was overcome by stuff and had to leave.
And yes, the Agent had more to add:
"Your last two photos are in New Llano.  When the Gulf Lumber Company sawmill at Stables cut out in 1916, the whole company town closed down and was put up for sale.  It was bought by The Llano del Rio Company of Nevada (doing business as the "Llano Co-Operative Colony"), a socialist utopian commune then located on the edge of the Mojave Desert in far northern Los Angeles County.  (See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Llano_Del_Rio .)  The colony was moved to Stables, which was renamed New Llano.  It struggled along there until its final bankruptcy in 1938.
The building in your first New Llano photo was the commissary of the Gulf Lumber Company and later of the colony.  The words "Llano Co-Operative Colony" in black were visible showing through white paint on the parapet until the current owner repainted it.  The smaller building with the rusty hipped roof to the left in your second photo was the office building for both the Gulf company and the colony.  Those premises are now occupied by a junk dealer, as you can see.  KCS's Newllano depot stood a bit out of your photo to the left (between the railroad and highway) until circa 1960, although it was long since closed.  KCS always called it "Newllano," which used to be a common alternate spelling.  The modern municipality is incorporated as the "Town of New Llano," and that's also the name of the post office".
And he signed off:
"So, I've told you more than anybody ever wanted to know about greater Leesville, but I hope that you found parts of it interesting".
Me: 
I know I did and I suspect that many others did also. As far as "more than anybody wanted to know", I'm sure that in this case "more" is better.
Thanks Agent 00-L. 
I turned east on La.10 which runs on the side of For Polk. The traffic was heavy as it was 5 pm, but it was all coming at me and I had an open road ahead. It got cold and the sky darkened. It stayed that way until Ville Platte and never rained. I threaded the needle the whole way enjoying all the benefits of the weather but none of the rock and roll which is associated with severe temperature changes in summer. Not a drop. It never got over 75 degrees. The bank clock in VP registered 75, and VP felt warm to me. I'm still shaking my head over that one. That's it. Bye.
A Mr.Clark left a nice note in the Guest Book. He remarked that he liked the history aspect of my rides. That reminded me to put a link to the old C&P ride to Camp Claiborne. Those places I mentioned in this one are in that write.
THE PROMISED LINK TO MORE OF CAMP CLAIBORNE AND THE RAILROAD IS HERE.

Red River & Gulf RR Article No.1

During a recent motorcycle ride, I happened upon Peason, Louisiana. There was a new historical marker there commemorating the town. There was, also, a collection of pictures in a glass case. I was fascinated. I began researching all the terms that I could gleam from the display. This page and the next will be expanded as I put what I can find together.
It was the train pictures that grabbed me.
Then I started combing the web for anything pertaining to the trains or the town. I've written several notes to websites asking for information and most have yet to respond. The source of the most informative information on Peason could not respond because the email address is non existent. I am going to copy it word for word here as it is too valuable for the originating site to control. I feel he would have wanted an insurance policy on his information. This was originally posted by a paper in Sabine Parish. That source is listed, below.
Towns & Communities: Peason & The Lumber Industry, Sabine Parish
Source: Sabine Index, Many, La., Apr 21, 1999
Submitted by: Carl Dilbeck
After the large lumber milling operations in New England and the Great Lakes areas "cut out" during the Civil War, lumbering began to move southward. By the 1900-1920 period, the lumber industry began to "boom" in the virgin pine forests of Louisiana, and the vast acres of unsurpassed pines in the western hills of Louisiana did not escape. Many sawmills were constructed in the "Calcasieu District," especially in Natchitoches and Sabine Parishes. In December 1916, A.J. Peavy, a young logger turned lumberman, acquired a tract of 40,000 acres in the southeastern section of Sabine Parish, in Wd. 1. A large cash payment was made at the time of the sale, with the balance to be paid in 88 promissory notes. Other land was acquired later. Peavy formed the partnership of Peavy and Wilson with R.J. Wilson, an experienced lumberman and mill manager, and the town of "Peason" was planned, the name being coined from a combination of the two surnames. The mill site was chosen, and in March, 1917, land agent Thomas Wingate headed up the task of clearing the ground and preparing for construction. Two-men crosscut saws were used, with horse and mule teams to drag the cut logs away. Wright Scarborough and F.G. Tarver were hired by Wingate for this task. By the fall of 1917, the tract had been cleared and a temporary wood-shed constructed to house lumber for the construction. Lumber to build the mill was brought by wagons drawn by mule and oxen from the D.B. Pate sawmill near the turpentine camp of Shutts, located near the northeastern corner of what is now Hodges Gardens. Many timbers were handpicked by a special representative of Peavy-Wilson Lumber Co., usually ranging from twenty-four inches to thirty inches in diameter, and about thirty feet long. These were used for the framing of the mill buildings and larger public service buildings of the town. Plans for the whole town were laid out in 1917, with most of the building being completed during 1918, and lumbering operations beginning in late 1918. A tap line railroad was constructed, the Christie and Eastern, running from Sandel on the Kansas City Southern line some twelve miles to the mill site. It was said that curves made up much of this mileage, as the track was constructed to surround steep hills and avoid sharp grades. Later the railroad was extended east to connect with the Red River and Gulf Railroad at Kurthwood, with connections to Lecompte. The town, which was wholly company owned, was dominated by the lumber mill across the southern end of the town. A large commissary or company store building also housed the company doctor's office and the post office. Other public buildings included the "Office Building," a movie theatre, garage, ice house, hotel, church, and school at the opposite end of town from the mill. Ten long rows of houses faced each other on five streets, with small alleys separating the backs of the houses. The population of the town ranged from 1500 to 2000 during the years of full production. The Peason operation was proudly billed as the largest pine operation west of the Mississippi during its peak from about 1918 to 1929. Its standard production was about 4,000,000 per month, with a selling price of about $125,000 gross, and production costs of about $80,000. During the early to mid-twenties, the mill often ran a double shift and produces about 7,000,000 feet per month. W.W. Goode, who worked in the office operations, has estimated that during the time of the operation at Peason, about six hundred million feet of lumber was produced. This would have sold for about eighteen million dollars gross, with production costs of twelve to thirteen million dollars. Spur logging roads were constructed to each part of the forest as harvesting progressed. Two-men crosscut teams felled the timber, large "skidders," pulled them near the railroad tracks, and steam loaders loaded the logs on to flat log cars. The powerful "Shay" engines brought the trains in to the main tracks, where the faster but less powerful "Rod" engines pulled them on into the mill and dumped them in the log pond. From here the logs were transported to the mill to be sawed, then, according to the kind of lumber designed, it went through the planer mill, to the steam kilns, and then to huge storage sheds. The lumber and timbers produced were sold all over the world. Employees ranged up to 450. Life in the town was good, even luxurious compared to the country life in southern Sabine before the coming of the mill. The company had its own water purification system, and its own generating plant for electricity. Therefore the pyramidal or umbrella style houses were equipped with electricity and running water. Rent for a six room house would be $12 monthly, including lights and water. Heat was provided by mill ends, costing $1 per wagon load delivered. The church was a "union" church, Baptist and Methodist. The Methodist Conference assigned a minister to preach two Sundays out of the month, and a resident Baptist minister preached the other two Sundays. The mill's run ended in 1935, in the midst of the great depression. A complete evaluation of the life of the town and the social changes brought about by its existence would be a major story. I offer these few facts to indicate the scope of the operation, and conclude with a nostalgic sketch from my own early life, which has been printed in the SABINE INDEX before, but which some new readers might enjoy. Much of the factual data on the production of the Peason mill given in the foregoing paragraphs was collected by my nephew, Lavell Cole, during a study he made at Northwestern State University, and I thank him for this data. Lavell is presently teaching history at the Quachita Baptist College in Arkadelphia, Ark., and is an eager student of regional history. I'm sure it is his hope, as mine, that these lines add a little to the understanding and appreciation of the history of Sabine Parish. OLD PEASON "Old Peason!" What waves of memories the words bring back! They take us back-back to THE TWENTIES. It wasn't "old" then; it was a lusty young sawmill town built shortly before World War I, and now in its hey-day. Rows and rows of bungalow type, steep-roofed houses stretched from the schoolhouse at one end of town to the huge mill at the other Main Street, and Railroad Street and Churchouse Street, among others. Main Street, which led to the industrial "end " of the town, was lined with sycamore trees. At the south end of this street were the hotel, barber shop, garage, moving picture theater, the company "office," the ice house, and the long commissary building which housed the company-owned department store, the postoffice, and the doctor's office. To a little girl accompanying her father on "peddling" trips, the commissary was the oasis at the end of the trail. Here was the drug store with its soda fountain and ice cream counter. Best of all, here were "grab bags" for a nickel. One actually reached into a gaping hole in a large pasteboard box and selected the small brown bag. It contained five pieces of assorted candy and a "prize." If it happened to be one's lucky day, the prize was a nickel, and that meant another grab bag. From the long front porch of the commissary one could watch the log trains puff in to the mill with their flat cars of logs stacked like matches or the "local" trains taking box cars of finished lumber over the old Christie and Eastern Railway to Sandel, on its way to widely scattered markets. The trains were exciting. They had steam whistles, and bells that rang and they belched forth clouds of intensely black smoke, for their fuel was pine knots, rich and "litered." Beyond the railroad tracks stretched the "mill," where my farmer father worked during slack seasons, He had taken us over the mill on a Sunday. We inspected the saw mill, the "planer" mill, and the loading sheds. Terms such as the "green Chain" and "dry kill" (it was years before I knew the word was really "kiln") were familiar even to elementary school pupils. Since we lived in the country outside of the mill town, I knew even more about the early stages of the lumber ring operations. I knew about the turpentine collections that precede lumbering; we children often examined the curved cups sitting on pegs in a tree below a wide V-shaped, grooved cut. Sometimes we even "helped" the workers by emptying the sap in a barrel nearby. Of course we knew that the men would be around early each morning to collect the turpentine, for we could hear their melodious calls long before day on winter mornings. I was acquainted with the spur railroads, built up with mule teams and slips, that might occur unexpectedly in any area of the forest. After that we might be halted on our walk to school by the cries of "Timber-rr!" and we would witness the fall of a forest giant. Next, the skidder would use iron cables to drag the logs near enough for the loader to stack them neatly in place on the cars of the log trains. I knew, too, of other fringe projects: the "pine knot crew" who provided the fuel for the log trains and for other boilers, the crews who made cross ties for the railroads, or peeled pilings for the trestles. Of course, childhood memories would inevitably be bound up with the two-story lumber school buildings at the north end of town. Not only was it constructed of pine lumber, but both floors were heavily oiled for dustless sweeping. It was used for years before wooden fire escapes were added. School boards had not been made so painfully safety conscious by school tragedies at that time. The building was overcrowded, and additions had to be made from time to time. Even the school was dominated by the whistles that ruled the life of the town, blowing at measured intervals from the pre-dawn hours until evening. When the noon whistle blew, the janitor rang the dinner bell, whether his watch agreed or not. Occasionally, a whistle would blow off schedule and the whole school would gasp anxiously and listen. Was it the "fire whistle" signal? (a series of short quick blasts) Whose house was on fire? Was it the "doctor call?" (a long, monotonous, sad tone) Whose father was hurt or killed? Some students would burst into tears at the awful suspense. If it was a fire, the high school boys would be dismissed to go help the fire fighters, and the elementary pupils would watch in awe as they sprinted down the street. Once, we were all taken outside the school to see what was, for most of us, our first aeroplane, a stray that passed overhead and made a forced landing in a field a few miles away. During these years, one of our teachers impressed upon us the headlines in the daily paper, "FROM NEW YORK TO PARIS IN ONE HOP." Lindbergh, of course. The school and the town flourished and grew. Orders for lumber poured in. Often, during the summer months, the saw mill and planer mill "Quartered," working extra hours at night. The workers from outside the town would walk home late at night by the light of kerosene lanterns. Those were the days of flapper girls, the Charleston dance, and the hit song "My Blue Heaven." They were the days when T-models careening along the narrow roads at 25-30 miles per hour alarmed the cattle, as well as the residents. Memory drifts on, then to THE THIRTIES. Not only had the nation-wide depression hit Peason-with reduced lumber orders, but a more immediate threat hung over the town. Almost all of the virgin timber was gone; soon the mill would "cut out;" already the lumber company was planning a transfer to new territory in Florida. This was accepted as inevitable, a foregone conclusion, as the order of the day in the lumbering operations of the time. As is well known in this area, there were a few notable exceptions to this policy, such as the Louisiana Long Leaf Lumber Company's operations at Fisher, but the general rule was the "cut out and out" policy. An air of uncertainty and foreboding hung over the whole mill town. The big question for every family was whether they should pull up stakes and follow the mill to Florida, or attempt to find new jobs in Louisiana, already plagued with unemployment. My own family had been there long before the mill came, and "guessed they could live without it-they had before it came," Privately, however, my parents mulled over how they would offset the loss of income from selling vegetables in the mill town, and from the labor my father did at the mill at odd times. Many of our classmates bade us a tearful farewell as their fathers' jobs ended at Peason, and they made the move to Florida, or to neighboring mill towns. Rapidly, the population of the town and school declined, In June, 1934, the last class graduated from Peason High School. This group, sadly depleted by transfers, consisted of five members: Velma Leach, Agnes Handley, Reba Coins, Oliver Geeting, Jr., and Floyd Dowden; Principal, F. E. Salter. The end was now in sight. Soon the last remaining group of tall pines were felled on Eagle Hill, a historic landmark near the town. A few weeks later, the whistles were blown continuously for a long, long time, until all the steam was exhausted. Many people wept at the lonely "last whistle," I for one. It seemed such a final thing, the end to a whole part of my life. The fact that I had just graduated from high school, and faced many other decisions and changes made it doubly drastic. My whole world was in a state of upheaval. And so ended Old Peason, not abruptly, as it seemed at the final whistle, but gradually, over a period of years, with adjustments and changes resulting from the mill's closing continuing for a long while afterward. It has been symbolic and encouraging to me that the church house, once in the middle of the town, but now next to open fields, has remained standing and is in use at the present. It encourages the hope that many things that were good, and worthwhile and enduring in the teeming life of Old Peason have perhaps continued to live, both here and in many far-flung communities. Who could say how many?
That is a treasure.
My great-grandfather had worked for Bentley above Alexandria. He and his family lived in one of the mill towns, Zimmeraman, I feel sure. I have also visited the living museum of southern forestry at Longleaf, the Southern Forest Heritage Museum. By the way, on Saturday, April 19, 2008, they are having a big party there. Attend and learn a bunch about the history of one of our state's largest industries. The place is, to use an overused term, awesome.
That's it for legitimate explanation of why I'm writing this aricle. The real reason
is that I'm a train nut. I love trains. My heart races when I see an old train bed.
I know I need therapy. Since that ain't happening, I calm down by doing these writes.
Actually, my heart is racing again.
At this point I want you to come this way and read about by previous visit to Longleaf and the SFH Museum. CLICK HERE to go there. It starts off at Fullerton but quickly goes to the museum's grounds. It will save me from posting those pictures here. Please right click the link and choose "Open in a new window", so you won't lose your place here. My old trick doesn't seem to work on this site.
Then you can visit my recently written page showing the Peason pictures.
CLICK HERE to go there.
That will get it for an introduction. The emphasis on the trains is next.
If you are a train nut, take an aspirin as things are getting ready to get emotional. Here I'm going to display everything I've found dealing with the Red River and Gulf Railroad, Peason and Long Leaf. Of course, I am limited by what the search engines have provided from my attempts at baiting them. I am sure there is much more out there and I'll continue fishing and adding if I get a bite. I hope this floats your boat. Alright, I'll quit.
Before I forget, I did find a reference to a book, "Up and Down the Red River and Gulf Railroad" by Troy L. DeRamus; 1989 (HE2771.L8.D47). It is for sale for 150 bucks on Amazon, if interested. This write is free, or maybe, cheap.
A Shay Engine, No.108, later, it was renumbered as No.106, built for Peavy-Wilson Lumber Co.
Quoting Carl Dilbeck, "The powerful "Shay" engines brought the trains in to the main tracks, where the faster but less powerful "Rod" engines pulled
them on into the mill and dumped them in the log pond."
The above rod engine is No.106. Why was the "Shay", renumbered? Was the "Rod" sold, crashed, or....?
Here is a little of the history of the railroad. I felt that I should include it as there is so little RR&G information out there. Gleam what you can for it.
RED RIVER & GULF RAILROAD. FROM HERE
The Red River & Gulf Railroad Company was incorporated in April, 1905, and its capital stock, amounting to $101,000, was delivered to the Crowell & Spencer Lumber Company and distributed by the latter as a dividend to its stockholders. The lumber company constructed the track and deeded the property to the railroad corporation. The two companies are, and have been from their inception, identical in interest, and they have the same officers.
The tap line connects with the Iron Mountain at Long Leaf, La., and with the Rock Island, Texas & Pacific and Southern Pacific at LeCompte, the track between those points being about 13 miles in length. The timber has all been cut away along the main line; but the lumber company has an unincorporated track about 4 miles in length, connecting with the tap line and running into the standing timber. The equipment of the tap line consists of 1 locomotive, a combination passenger and freight car, and 3 flat cars. The lumber company itself owns and operates 3 locomotives and about 50 logging cars.
The mill of the lumber company is at Long Leaf, within a quarter of a mile of the tracks of the Iron Mountain. The lumber company loads the logs on its cars in the woods, and with its engines- hauls them over the unincorporated tracks and thence over the incorporated tap line to the mill under a trackage privilege, for which it pays the tap line 25 cents per 1,000 feet, log scale. In other words, the logs are moved to the mill precisely in the manner that they were before the incorporation of the tap line, with the exception that the lumber company goes through the form of paying a trackage charge. Before the incorporation practically all the lumber moved over the Iron Mountain and no divisions were paid. But at the time of the hearing the bulk of the lumber moved over the tap line to the Rock Island, a distance of over 12 miles, the divisions paid by that company ranging from 2-1/2 cents to 4-1/2 cents per 100 pounds. The allowance of the Iron Mountain is uniformly 3 cents, while the Southern Pacific pays 3 and 4 cents per 100 pounds. The Texas & Pacific grants no divisions.
There is an independent mill on the tap line about 5 miles from LeCompte, with a capacity of about 40,000 feet per day. It hauls its logs to the mill by wagon. The lumber traffic of the tap line for the year 1910 amounted to 37,820 tons, with 1,363 tons of other freight. The revenue from the freight was $29,576.56, in addition to which the lumber company paid $5,191.36 for trackage rights for its log trains, and the Rock Island paid $6,666.75 for the privilege of running trains loaded with gravel over a portion of the tap line. The Red River & Gulf runs one train daily in each direction, on which passengers are carried; and its revenues from passengers amounted to $1,213.40 for the year 1910. These figures are taken from the annual reports to the Commission, which show an accumulated surplus on June 30, 1910, of $6,865.74, after the payment of a 40 per cent dividend during that year, amounting to $40,400. In the year 1907 it paid a 15 per cent dividend, with 40 per cent in 1908, and 20 per cent in 1909, making a total of $116,150 distributed in four years to its stockholders, on a capitalization of $101,000.
The allowances paid here are clearly excessive and amount to a re-bate to the lumber company. The allowance by the Iron Mountain to the tap line for switching the product of the mill to its rails may not lawfully exceed $2 a car; and we fix the division out of the rates that may lawfully be made by the Rock Island and other trunk lines on the products- of the mill of the controlling company at Long Leaf at 2 cents per 100 pounds as a maximum.
There was a little info on a couple of the engines.
First is 104, which has made the rounds. I got this from somewhere:
Historic locomotive to move to Southeastern Railway Museum
August 29, 2007
For Immediate Release (Duluth, Ga.).
"The Southeastern Railway Museum is pleased to announce the donation of "General II," Stone Mountain Railroad's locomotive No. 104.
Originally built in 1919 engine No. 104 for the Red River & Gulf Railroad, the locomotive moved to Gulf Sand & Gravel Co. in 1950 to become Comite Southern No. 1.
The Stone Mountain Scenic Railroad acquired the engine in 1961. It became known as "General II" when it was rebuilt and cosmetically altered to resemble the "General," the locomotive made famous by the Andrews Raid and locomotive chase through northwest Georgia during the Civil War".
The display at Peason had this picture. Isn't it ironic that I found No.104, the engine shown in this old photograph.
No.202 at the museum on Long Leaf:
No.400 at the Long Leaf Museum:
Here are some notes I've taken from Carl Dilbeck's masterpiece.
How the mill at Peason was built:
Lumber to build the mill was brought by wagons drawn by mule and oxen from the D.B. Pate sawmill nearthe turpentine camp of Shutts, located near the northeastern corner
of what is now Hodges Gardens.
The line from Peason to Sandel:
A tap line railroad was constructed, the Christie and Eastern, running from Sandel on the Kansas City Southern line some twelve miles to the mill site. It was said that curves made up much of this mileage, as the track was constructed to surround steep hills and avoid sharp grades.
Later, the connection to Longleaf and Lecompte:
Later the railroad was extended east to connect with the Red River and Gulf Railroad
at Kurthwood, with connections to Lecompte.
The RR&G and Peavy-Wilson Lumber Co. connection:
The lumber company constructed the track and deeded the property to the railroad corporation. The two companies are, and have been from their inception, identical in interest, and they have the same officers.
More from HERE.
[To Repeat]The tap line connects with the Iron Mountain at Long Leaf, La., and with the Rock Island, Texas & Pacific and Southern Pacific at LeCompte, the track between those points being about 13 miles in length. The timber has all been cut away along the main line; but the lumber company has an unincorporated track about 4 miles in length, connecting with the tap line and running into the standing timber. The equipment of the tap line consists of 1 locomotive, a combination passenger and freight car, and 3 flat cars. The lumber company itself owns and operates 3 locomotives and about 50 logging cars.
The Red River & Gulf runs one train daily in each direction, on which passengers are carried; and its revenues from passengers amounted to $1,213.40 for the year 1910.
Thankfully I am through with all the educational part of the write. All that I have for now, anyway. The fun part now starts, at least for me. I'm going out there and find all of the bed I can riding the back roads, my personal passion.
Below are the maps as I will work west to east.
A Toonerville Trolly connected Sandel, on US171 with Peason, on La.118. Click the maps and pictures to enlarge. Then hit the back button to return.
Peason to Kurtwood
Kurtwood to Melder:
The names of the places that made this map possible came from Abandoned Rails: The Red River & Gulf Railroad
The next, and last section, is from Elmelhine to Lecompte. I am unsure about this. I've put in a request to the museum to varify it.
Next, I'll supply pictures of the grade that I've found.
This may be a full summer project. Stay tuned.
Armed with the supposed rail route on the bike's GPS, I headed to the area below Lake Cocodrie which was, as my Maps of Louisiana showed, laced with old rail beds left from the hay day of steam engine enabled forestry. The evidence was clear to a believer as I stopped at each intersection of gravel road and dotted line depicting an old route. Amazingly, the map still displayed what I would consider "dummy lines", what I thought were very temporary intrusions into the soon to be leveled forest. The "virgin" forest must have been extremely thick.
Getting exited to see the pictures?
Not quite yet.
As every foray into History Land requires, I did more internet searches trying to find additional information about Peason, the Red River and Gulf Railroad, and by using a new term, "Christie and Eastern Railroad" , gleamed, again, from that roadside display in Peason.
This was last night's catch:
"Peason was established in 1918 by a long time logger, Mr. A.J. Peavy. Later, he met Mr. R.J. Wilson, a lumberman, and a mill manager. Together they started the Peavy-Wilson Lumber Company. Peason was a major logging town known to everyone in the area as, "The Peavy-Wilson Lumber Company." It had a movie theater, hotel, saloon, and a main street that was lined with sycamores. The town was located on Peason Ridge, ten miles west of Florien; Peason was at the end of the Christie and Eastern Railroad. People in the Peason Community were farmers before the mill came. After the mill came all the people started working there for better money. When the mill closed down in 1935 in the middle of the great depression, the people either had to go back to farming or they moved to Florida to try to make a living.
In 1894, the "Pine Grove Baptist Church" was established in Peason. In the early 1900's and late 1800's the Peason High School was established. The last class graduated in 1934. During the years between 1918 and 1929, there were 1,500 to 2,000 people living in Peason.
By 1934 trees were getting scarce. The last trees that ran through the mill were cut off the top of Eagle Hill. Later on Peavy Wilson donated all this land to the Peason Community. Then, the Peason Community donated the land to the United States Government for the military bombing range. The range is the most important thing in Peason now, since the mill is gone except for the people that still live there. People from all over the United States come to practice for war at Peason Ridge.
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Mr. Otis Westfall, who is now 97 years of age and happens to be Tyler’s great-grandfather, remembers Peason during the booming days. He used to work for the sawmill that was located in Peason. Mr. Westfall and his family also lived there. As a teenage boy he recalls that trains moved the timber into the sawmill town. The trains would carry several hundred trees, called "virgin timber" into the mill. Then the men and young teenagers would unload it and cut it up for lumber. Mr. Westfall, tells that everything that was needed was located in this town. After everyone got paid at the end of the week they would all go to the commissary and spend all their money. The commissary had a long, wooden porch where people would get together and visit each other while they bought their supplies. Mr. Westfall said, "all the money stayed in this town." The men would buy several pounds of supplies that the families needed at home. If other supplies and clothes were needed, they could also buy it there. Everything the people needed was available in the sawmill town. Mr. Westfall also tells that at the Peason Sawmill town he first got a glimpse of his future sweetheart whom later became his wife, Mrs. Sylvia Simmons Westfall. He said, "she wouldn’t pay attention to me at first" but later on they became husband and wife.
Mr. Otis Westfall shared this with our family before he went into the nursing home. He still remembers lots of things that happened in this area. He has always lived in Peason until recently.
Old Peason remembered by Mrs. Exie McInnis, as told to Willie Jones:
The school sat on the front street. Peason School only went to the eleventh grade. The school had many sports including boys and girls basketball. Mrs. Ruby Nicholson was the first principal that Mrs. Exie knew of. Some of the teachers included Mrs. Ivey Jordan, Helen Wiggens who married the postmaster, Mr. Dallas Allen. The primary teacher was Hedi Gardner. The second principal was R.V. Tuck who came from Kentucky and stayed for two years until he moved on. Mrs. Cooper was principal in 1902. Another teacher was Lucy Bolen she taught English. The school also had a home economics class. Mrs. Exie taught sixth grade in 1927-28.
The commissary was a very busy place. It had a long front porch on the front of it. It housed the doctor’s office, drug store, furniture store, butcher’s shop, post office, dry goods and a grocery store. Behind it sat the icehouse. The front street was lined with sycamore trees. There were houses on both sides of the railroad tracks. At one time Peason was the largest town in Sabine Parish. The mill was located by the log pond on the west side of Peason. The mill and town took up about 60 acres. The old pond is still there today; it is located about 13 miles from Florien on Hwy. 118. The large pond covered about five to six acres, it was used to float the logs into the mill. Some of the trees are still standing and if you look close you can even tell where the streets and railroad tracks used to be.
Mrs. Exie continues her discussion about Peason with the following information that was personally handwritten on two sheets of paper. "The first thing Peason had to have was a name so they took the first three letters of Mr. Peavy’s name ‘Pea’ and the last three letters ‘son’ of Wilson and put them together and named it Peason. The company also had an officer that lived in the top store of the pay office to keep order and I’ve forgotten his name but he kept good order. Peason was a quite town.
Peason also gave his people plenty of entertainment. They built a theater for movies every night except Sunday night for the grown ups and a skating rink for the younger set.
It seemed like it was hard to keep a doctor. The first Dr. was E.C. Dillion but he was gone pretty soon nobody knew why. I do not know all their names, but I’ll give you the names I do remember, Dr. Alford, Dr. Ellzey, and Dr. Franklin from Anacoco and he stayed as long as Peason stayed there. Mr. John D. Whittington was the second man to run the drug store and he stayed until they cut out. The railroad called Christie and Eastern is the railroad from Peason to the K.C.S. at what is called Sandel now, but was called Christie before Peason. The motor car was driven twice a day from Peason to Christie to get the mail.
When Peason moved away there was a man and his family Henry Sharp came to sell the houses, railroad steel, and all the things left behind. When the motor car stopped going after the mail Mr. Mack Duggan extended his route and brought Peason mail out to the Peason place until the mail was not very much so they did away with Peason post office and Mr. Duggan had a longer route.
I forgot to tell you that Peason run their railroad from Peason to Kurthwood below Kisatchie so they could ship lumber two ways."
As quoted from a personal letter addressed to Willie on September 17, 1998 by Mrs. Exie McInnis. She also provided a newspaper clipping with additional information.
Information gathered by:
Tyler, Josh, Willie and Cody
[Obviously school kids, way to go, M.History Teacher]
[Ok, a little history and geography of the area]
Florien & The Neutral Strip
"The Village of Florien is located in Sabine Parish in scenic west central Louisiana near Toledo Bend Reservoir. Florien was founded in 1897 and was named for Mr. Florien Giauque. In 1997, the residents of Florien celebrated the centennial of this picturesque village. Florien is the home of the Sabine Free State Festival and beautiful Hodges Gardens. The festival is celebrated every November and commemorates the great historical events leading to the establishment and termination of the "neutral ground" between the territory of the United States and the territory of Spain, west of the Mississippi River.
Events leading to the territorial dispute resulting in the "neutral ground" agreement really began with the French establishment of its westernmost settlement and fort in Louisiana at Natchitoches and the eastern boundary of El Camino Real (San Antonio Trace) at Los Adaes, just east of present day Robeline. In 1803, the United States bought Louisiana from France. This vast territory known as the Louisiana Purchase, included all the land drained by the Mississippi River. When the Americans asked the French about the western boundary of this land, the French were very vague. A definite boundary of Louisiana had not been determined. The Spaniards in Texas considered it to be the Red River. The Americans claimed it to be the Sabine River. Finally, a neutral strip was created in 1806 when no decision could be made. General James Wilkinson, representing the United States, met with the Spanish commander at Los Adaes, the first settlement in the Neutral Strip, to make this agreement.
From 1806-1820, this area was often referred to as "The Neutral Strip" or "No Man's Land". During this time, this strip of land between the Sabine River on the west and the Arroyo Hondo and the Calcasieu River on the east, soon attracted people of all kinds. Outlaws often came to take advantage of a land without law enforcement. In 1810, a joint expedition of Spanish and Americans drove them out. Lawlessness continued until 1822, when Colonel Zachary Taylor built Fort Jesup and brought order to the lawless region. The Florida Treaty of 1819 fixed the western boundary of the Territory of Orleans, among others, but not until 1826 did the so-called "Free State of Sabine" really become part of Louisiana."
The Dover House
[NOT IN PEASON, but it is a bridge from Peason to the extended forestry based communities that I am finding so interesting, Florien and Fisher. I'm either not doing something right in my searches or there is a scant information about this society. What I can find will be posted, back to the Dover House.]
The Joe and Elizabeth Dover family home was built soon after the World War I armistice was signed on November 18, 1917. The family moved into the home during the spring of 1920.
The house is built entirely of "heart" lumber that was purchased from the Peavy- Wilson Lumber Company located near Peason, Louisiana. Many of the other materials had to be shipped to Florien pursuant to special orders. These included the outside columns, the beveled oval glass doors, kitchen sink, electric light fixtures and bathroom fixtures.
The house contains three bedrooms, one bath, living room, dining room, kitchen and pantry.
Exterior features that were unique to Florien in 1920 remain intact today. These include the columns across the front, brick flower planters located on either side of the front steps, a covered car port at the side entrance, porches around three sides and a woodshed containing a workbench and covered clotheslines. There was also an outdoor privy, chicken coop and a large henhouse. There was, at one time, a frame house adjoining the "back" pasture that was built for Willie Ed Porter, a handyman employed by the Dovers. Porter was a colorful individual and was every entertaining with his "jig" dances and other antics. Porter remained with the Dovers from 1920 till his death in 1950.
The house was originally heated with a wood stove which was also the cook stove but in 1940 this was replaced by the second gas system to be installed in the village of Florien (the first was installed next door in the home of Marguerite Dover Dupree).
Originally, the plans for the family home included a provision for adding a second floor to the one story building. To accommodate these plans there is a high beamed ceiling and completely floored attic. Today the Joe and Elizabeth Dover home remains in its original state. Family members have kept the home intact however, in the fall of 1997 family members donated the Dover house to the Village of Florien and the Sabine Freestate.
Information gathered by A. Lee.
Thanks to Ms. K. Arthur for her contribution."
Now for the ride through the forest in search for of train beds.
Sorry, that will be on the next page. I have domestica to attend to.
Above is an example of the maze of old railroad beds that lace the woods south of Lake Cocodrie, my recent haunts. They are too many to highlight. If you look closely, you can see the dashed lines. (click the map with your right mouse button and select "open in new window") The white line is my route from La.13 westward. I turned off La.13, just south of Turkey Creek at the brown sign for Crooked Creek Reservoir and campground. I believe it is Cypress Road. That road dead ends at Red Robert which starts on its east near Turkey Creek. I had coordinated each picture with numbers, like that was important. It was at the time, but that importance has subsided. The following will be a number of pictures of what I believed were some of the lumber train routes through the forest. I understand from the previous writings that the Shay gear driven engines were used (at Peason) because of their pulling power. This was Long Leaf's territory. Then the cars were transferred to rod type engines (familiar steam engines) which took the cars quickly to the mill. Here are the pictures of a few of those old beds. Now try to imagine:
And, along the roads:
And, when the routes have been overlaid with present day dirt roads.
After wandering around south of Cocodrie, and almost becoming a wet place in the road under a lumber truck, I headed for the oasis of all local forestry knowledge, The Southern Forest Heritage Museum at Long Leaf. I walked into the old commissary and no one was there. Everyone was out working on preparations for their big weekend coming up on April 19, 2008. Shortly, a lady appeared and I told her of my problem finding the immediate Red River and Gulf exit/entrance to Longleaf from the west. She found a gentleman who claimed not to be the authority, but he immediately found what I needed. They were both devoted to finding the answer to my question. Pay these people a visit. Their place is AWESOME.
The bad news was this. There are no rails from Longleaf to Lecompte as one website had said was proposed. In fact there is less evidence than in the woods because population, nurseries, and farms have covered them. Below is a little evidence I found along La.112 between Forest Hill and Lecompte. Pipelines have assumed old rail beds because the Right of Ways are intact and easy to access. These pipelines and power lines preserve history. Camp on one and you can hear the engines in the warm humid southern pine forest night.
Another road rides the previous rails.
Being a bit depressed at the lack of rotting rail ties, I rode into Lecompte. There were no humps in the road, nothing. I saw where the cross track had been, in the middle of a neighborhood yard. Should I believe the GPS? Then I looked to the right, across the bayou. There were the remains of the old trestle crossing Bayou Bouef. I heard trumpets blare.
My faith restored, suddenly the vision of of an industrial railroad district came into focus. The "rails" followed the bayou south through town, I was clicking away behind an imaginary lumbering steam and smoke belching beast as it made its way to the junction with the long gone Southern Pacific, now the main Union Pacific line at Lecompte. Below are those pictures. Did you see that puff of black smoke? I did.
The locations of the doors on the buildings told me that I was on the rails. It was a moment. Suddenly, I just had a flash of Peter Pan, saying something about "believing". I think he was onto something.
The historical marker is near the old Methodist Church on the south side of town as I exited. It is a reminder that Lecompte is not new to railroading and that the Red River and Gulf was a newcomer in town compared to Mr.Smith's endeavor.
Here's the last vision of what I believe is the confluence of the RR&G and Southern Pacific RR's. Is that switch set?
That's it for now.